Road
to the World Cup
Focus: Kaiserslautern
The Stadium
The story of Kaiserslautern’s Fritz-Walter-Stadion
is one of near collapse and impressive resurgence. Construction
of the stadium finished in 1920 and the soccer cathedral
atop the Betzenberg mountain soon became known among
fans simply as “Betze.” This nickname prevailed
even after 1985, when the home of Bundesliga side FC
Kaiserslautern underwent a name change from Berzenbergstadion
to Fritz-Walter-Stadion in honor of Germany’s
legendary 1954 World Cup captain. Around 1990, officials
then agreed on a 15 year development plan that would
turn the historic soccer stadium into one of the premier
venues for the sport in the country. However, due to
heavy mismanagement on the part of FC Kaiserslautern’s
executive board, the club nearly faced bankruptcy in
1998, which threatened the future of professional soccer
in the area. As a result, the stadium had to be sold
to the local Fritz-Walter-Stadion GmBH, while the federal
government and the city of Kaiserslautern made major
investments to keep the area’s most important
sporting venue alive.
Today, construction on the East stand has been completed,
and the extension of the West stand will bring the stadium’s
total capacity to 48,500. In addition, the Fritz-Walter-Stadion
will feature new floodlighting on the roofs of the North
and South stands, as well as new media facilities integrated
into the North stand. The East and West stands will
see the installation of an improved sound system, while
a tower for both VIP and media boxes will be added to
the stadium. By June 2006, renovation of the historic
soccer venue will have cost almost $90 million (U.S.).
Where Do I Hang If
I Don’t Have Tickets?
Since German officials have been able to agree on an
outstanding master concept, even fans without tickets
can be sure to have a memorable experience in Kaiserslautern.
As in the other World Cup cities, the “fan fest”
will be opening its gates here, offering public viewing
and a colorful supporting program—both free of
charge. For the duration of the world’s greatest
sporting event, Kaiserslautern’s official big
screen will have its home on Stiftsplatz, while plans
are in the making for a fan center along Eisenbahnstraße
and Rummelstraße all the way to the public-viewing
area. Meanwhile, less gigantic screens might be put
up on smaller plazas and walls all over town, as officials
are expecting up to 100,000 soccer tourists on each
of the 5 match days. This would about double the city’s
population, since Kaiserslautern is the smallest of
all German World Cup cities. And should the U.S. play
here, you might be in for a truly unique experience,
as 40,000 American soldiers and their families are already
stationed around Kaiserslautern, making the region the
largest U.S. military base outside of the United States.
Grub, Pubs and Going
All Night
Kaiserslautern offers numerous places to have a few
beers and relax after an exhausting two hours of cheering
your team to victory. Most pubs and bars are situated
right in the city center, where German places such as
Altbier-Stübchen or Central enjoy significant popularity.
Meanwhile, many English-speaking visitors are attracted
by American establishments like Metropolitan or the
wine bar Moll’s Keller. And, if you’re looking
to kill some time until the big match, simply hop on
a bus and get off near two of the most popular billiards
spots—the Billiard Café and the huge Fun
Dome Billiard Café, which are both within walking
distance of each other.
Meanwhile, the city center is also your place to go
for lunch and dinner. Here, you will find everything
from Spinnrädl’s traditional Palatinate food
to numerous Italian, Greek, Chinese, French and Turkish
eateries, and also restaurants with more exotic cuisines,
such as Nepalese and Russian.
If you’re looking to party the night away, Kaiserslautern
might not be your first choice, as clubs and discos
are harder to come by here than in the bigger cities.
Nonetheless, another bus ride after dinner can get you
to three popular hotspots within walking distance from
each other—Blue Eye, Fillmore and Step’s.
Other Must-Do’s
Even though Kaiserslautern can hardly be considered
a metropolis, its diversity attracts a significant number
of visitors every year. The city’s surrounding
region, the huge Palatinate Forest, is perfect for a
large range of activities such as walking, hiking, roller-
skating and mountain-biking. In addition, Kaiserslautern
has a rich history, as it was first mentioned as “Lutra”
in an official document in 830, and famous Emperor Frederick
I (Barbarossa) built an imperial palace here in 1152.
However, despite its historic buildings and the scenic
historical district, Kaiserslautern is a surprisingly
modern city. Families are offered a variety of activities
here, including many adventure playgrounds, a zoo, a
wild animal park and the famous Garden Show, which is
host to Europe’s largest dinosaur exhibition.
How To Get Around
Pending potential changes, the best way for soccer fans
to travel between the city center and the stadium area
will be by means of purchasing a one-week pass for 14
euros. In doing so, you will be able to use the city’s
public-transportation system within the respective zone
24/7. And if you’re planning on a trip to Kaiserslautern’s
surrounding region, simply ask an official at the city
center’s Hauptbahnhof (main train station) about
the fairly inexpensive day pass, which can be made valid
for as many zones as needed.
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